On this trip (my wife and
I) left our hometown on the 13th of April 2006, that should
have been an omen. Anyway we, I had decided to take our
oversized 4-wheel drive pickup in case we run into bad
weather and hazardous conditions on the mountain roads. We have two other
vehicles that would have been just fine because the weather
was the least of my worries and was not a factor. We were
forced to travel I-15 until we had reached Springville in
Utah valley. I left I-15 and found my way to 89 only to get
lost on the first junction south of Springville. Getting
back on my route I found I had to again leave it and travel
up Spanish Fork canyon for about 10 miles until I reached
the Manti turnoff. We were now ready to embark on our
journey and were unaware of the route twists and turns that
lay before us. The first stop was in Fairview. I stopped
for gas (this will happen many times over the next 4 days,
the curse of a larger than needed SUV) and being that the
town is at best a one stoplight town I found the only
suitable building to take my first picture, the photo left
is a museum and wasn't open at that hour.
Venturing on our next
stop was off the route a little ways and was an interesting
small town of Spring City. My father had been a brick mason
and while I grew up with full knowledge of the craft I
wasn’t as successful as my brother and decided to
pursue other career choices. I was still in awe of some of
the structures I came upon in that small city. The picture
you see is the local functioning Mormon meeting house or
chapel. It was constructed in 1906 and was added onto later
as the picture shows. I also took another picture of a
residential home constructed in the same manner with the
same building blocks. There were other buildings that were
constructed as the chapel and I was curious as to where the
blocks were shaped and what quarry they had come from. I
didn’t take as many pictures as I had wanted because
the light was in our eyes and the buildings were facing the
wrong way.
Passing through Ephraim
without finding any local history markings or interesting
buildings that could be added to my gallery we next found
ourselves in Manti. The focal point of Manti is the LDS
Temple. It is a beautifully constructed edifice and well
deserves the praise I had heard when I was planning our
trip. Any history of the State of Utah will and must
include references to the Mormon religion. They were the
first white settlers and were the governing body that
established the settlements in most of Utah. So I hope I
don’t become too preachy and bore your with the
redundant references. Manti temple is the site of a pageant
that has been going on since it’s beginning and while
I have never attended I did receive a quick synopsis from
my youngest daughter who had attended it 20 years ago at an
age that was fashionable, she was expected to attend church
and the religious events that were part of her
indoctrination. While we were passing the north side of the
temple we could see many church members dressed in their
finest obviously having just witnessed a temple marriage
ceremony. I can only guess as to what they witnessed
because as a non-worthy member I couldn’t partake of
the festivities. The road now led south through Sterling
and into Gunnison. The area we had just traveled was called
Little Denmark and while not seeing anything that reminded
me of Copenhagen I will take their word for
it.
We passed the southern
campus of the Utah State Correctional system in Gunnison
and I always say if you seen one prison you’ve seen
them all. Rolled razor wire and all. I was told by a
former resident of Southern Utah that any trip down 89
should include a side trip via Route 12 over Boulder
mountain. So leaving 89 at Salina in the Salina Valley of
the Heritage Highway we followed 24 to Torrey, turned on 12 again began our journey over the
route named as one of 10 best scenic routes in America. The
climb up is steady and very beautiful, tree lined and
gradual. At this point I should inform you that I have a
thing for heights, closed-in spaces and airplanes. I try to
avoid them at all costs. That being said I was aware that
at some point we would cross over a section of Route 12
that is called ‘The Hogback’. It is a stretch
that is only about one half mile long but it made my cheeks
pucker up somewhat and I was only able to focus on the
dotted line down the center. You are on a 14% grade
pointed downhill with a recommended speed of 25. I
wasn’t able to reach that speed since most of the
time I had my foot on the brake and my transmission in
first. My wife was oohing and aahing telling me I was
missing some gorgeous scenery and should stop and take a
picture. I was able to stop and take a picture at the start
of the ‘Hogback’ but beyond that I
couldn’t get off that mountain ridge fast enough. I
must say that you couldn’t find a more scenic route
anywhere and the rest of that portion was inspiring. I
would recommend that everyone should take it at least
once. Pull a trailer at your own risk!
You are traveling through
sections of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and
are on solid slick rock most of the way. One wonders how
they built the roadway and etched out a path level enough
to pave it and call it a highway. I wondered as I drove if
some of the scenes from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid
were filmed along those cliffs. You also travel through
Bryce Canyon with it’s Hoodoos and gorgeous scenery.
I was able to take pictures at pull outs that line the
route. As you exit Bryce’s you are struck by the
beauty of the scenery and picturesque drive down Red
Canyon.
The route down to Kanab
is picturesque and a gradual decent with light traffic. As
a child I was completely mesmerized with the cowboy and
everything associated with that era. My mother stated that
my cap guns went on just after my diaper. I have pictures
that show me as a lad with the full dress cowboy clothing
and a pair of guns strapped to my hips. If reincarnation is
a fact then I firmly believe that I was a cowboy hero of
the old west in a former life. John Wayne was my hero and I
never missed Roy Rogers, Gene Autry or Hopalong Cassidy on
Saturday mornings. I never figured out or for that matter
never cared that a jeep (Nellie Bell) was running around
the ranch while Roy and Dale were pursuing the bad guys to
the same line shack in the foothills every week. We were
having breakfast at Grandma Tina’s the next morning
in Kanab and struck up a conversation with a former local
resident that related stories about his association as a
bit player in Gunsmoke and other western TV roles as well
as some movies. He told us about the location of the set
for Gunsmoke and I was surprised that the set still existed
and located outside Kanab. I would have sworn that it was
in the back lot on some Hollywood production company. He
had us drive out 9 miles on 89 from Kanab and turn left up
Johnson canyon for 3 miles. We discovered the ramshackle
remains of TV’s Dodge City. We could only see it from the
road since it is located on private property and is fenced off so you can’t
enter. But the Longbranch and Doc’s staircase were
still evident. I was able to get a telephoto shot of the
main street. I have since read where the owners are
planning a complete makeover of the building and restore it
to it’s former glory. With that I wish them 'Good Luck'.
Leaving Dodge City in
my rear view mirror we drove along 89 back into the Grand
Staircase-Escalante NM and observed the Vermillion Cliffs
that line the route. I must admit that I had no idea what
vermillion was or meant and was surprised when my wife
(coming from a long line of crafters) informed me that they
did indeed look like vermillion, how was I to know that it
is a shade of color. We next entered the Lake Powell area
and noted how low the water was in comparison to the
watermark on the side of the rock formations. I can only
guess as to what beauty the government decided to flood so
that they could produce more power and supply the masses
with enough water to populate the deserts south and to the
west of Powell. I took the required photo of the river
below the Glen Canyon Dam and left the Page area deciding
that not much notable history could have happened since
it’s founding in 1966. I have descended into the Echo
Cliff area on 89 several times and never quite felt
comfortable with the downgrade. But I now knew it
wasn’t as nerve racking as ‘The
Hogback’.
The three photos you
see above were taken at the site that probably was the
highlight of my trip. The first is a Tyrannosaurus Rex
according to our guide (it was about 4 foot in diameter),
the second is a skeletal fossil of some unkown species, and
the third is the droppings that are spread around the area.
I had discovered by surfing the web that there were
dinosaur tracks within a stone’s throw of 89 near
Tuba City. We left 89 and drove along 160 for about three
miles. We came upon a poorly hand written sign that said
‘Dinosaur Tracks, turn now!’ We could see a
cluster of stands that dot the highways on the reservations
and were not to surprised that we would encounter them
here. You will see our self appointed guide and parking lot
attendant in the photo. He took us on a walking safari to
tread in the footsteps of the dinosaurs. It was so
unexpected and delightful that I talked about it for miles
after leaving. He pointed out the tracks, fossils and
Dinosaur droppings as we went. I also had a lesson on
politically correct referrals about his nationality and
what I should address his people as. I knew that the term
Indian is an insult but I was unaware that Navajo is also
an insult. He said the proper name and what they want to be
called is Dine` 'The people'. Indian was the name Columbus called them
thinking he was in India. Navajo was the name given to
their tribe by the Spaniards and it meant
‘Thief’. I noticed that all along 89 there were
signs pointing out that you can get your Indian souvenirs
here. The name Navajo was also prominently displayed as
well. I want to warn any travelers that you should
establish the fee the guide will charge you before you
start your tour. I graciously handed over $20 to our guide
because of the unique and unexpected experience I had just
had. I think you can get it cheaper.
Continuing south along
89 you will see the painted desert and be sure to stop at
the Cameron Trading Post for a delicious meal complimented by 'Indian' fry bread. Next is the
loop through the Wupatki National Monument and Sunset
Crater Volcano. It is about 34 miles long and easy driving
all the way. The first stop is a walking tour of the ruins
and somewhat restored pueblos of a long lost Native
American tribe. They think they were related to the Anazazi
and disappeared about 900 years ago, which coincides with
the time frame of the eruption of the Sunset Volcano.
Evidently the ash that covered the area made growing crops
impossible so out of necessity they had to seek settlements
elsewhere. The above two photos are examples of the
estimated 400 plus structures that are spread out over the
area. While driving near the base of the volcano you become
aware of the lack of vegetation under the trees that are
the only thing that has returned to life. It was an odd
feeling to drive through a forest of nothing but trees. We
came upon a lava flow that had cooled and crystallized into
a sea of obsidian, but my photo didn't show the beauty of the rain soaked outcroppings.
Our trip was series of loops
and redirected tours along 89. We decided that we wanted to
stay off I-40 and made the decision to take 89A to
Prescott. I wonder now knowing what was in store for me if
I would have made the same decision. Not far along 89A you
start your decent into Oak Creek Canyon. It is a series of
switchbacks and steep grades until you reach the canyon
floor. I should have been aware of the warning sign about
no vehicle over 50 feet long and absolutely no semis. I
thought that I experienced enough mountain driving and felt
that I was pressing my luck. Remember my aversion to
heights. I think we drove for about 3 miles on the
switchbacks and were only about fifty feet further
southwest. The valley floor is an experience that I
won’t soon forget it was stunning to put it mildly.
There were camping spots galore and one of most beautiful
mountain streams that could have existed. I have found out
that it is the second most visited site in Arizona.
Assuming Grand Canyon is first you can get an idea how
beautiful it is. The Canyon continues on to Sedona and the
red hills surrounding it. Sedona is beautiful and geared
for the high end tourist and their gas guzzling Hummers. We have similar
cities in Utah, Park City comes to mind and Steamboat
Springs in Colorado is another comparatively similar
setting. I was unable to get any real good photos because
of the overcast skies but it should be on your travel plans
if you visit Arizona.
As we descended into the Cottonwood Valley we soon become
aware of the location of Jerome, AZ. As we neared the
mountain my wife commended to me 'I wonder how they get
up to those houses?'. Hmm well we soon found out. I mentioned
twice before about my fear of heights and the climb to
Jerome was additional fodder to add to the places that I only want to
visit once. After driving upward on multiple switchbacks we
entered the cluster of houses and businesses that make up
the community of Jerome. You wind through the town at about
10-15 miles per and stop on inclines at stop signs that if
you look behind you, you can only see air. Dodging the
tourists racing from art gallery to restaurant and putting
your steering column to the ultimate test, you finally leave town.
Two laughable (now) signs were the 'Shoulder work ahead' and
the 'Road narrows' that we encountered. The road is less
that 20 feet wide at most places and is lined with either
buildings or retaining walls. The shoulder work was an
area less that a foot maybe two wide. The road narrows was
an alley way that had to be less than 15 feet with two way
traffic. I was lucky enough to meet very light traffic in the
opposing lane but that didn't diminish the nervousness
I was feeling as we ascended the mountains before us.
I had a local resident following close enough to eat dinner
off my rear bumper and she kept pushing me at every turn. I
had two pickups ahead of me, with the lead setting the pace
at less than 20 mph. I was very content at that speed.
The nervous lady behind me wasn't. I pulled over at the
only pullout I found, barely wide enough for my truck and
allowed her to pass. I watched in horror as she sped pass
the other two trucks on an inside curve with a very steep grade.
I only hope she arrived at her destination safely. My wife noted
4 mountain ranges we crawled up and over finally descending into
the Prescott valley.
Prescott valley is located centrally in a beautiful setting with curious shaped rock formations.
I believe it was once a mining center like Jerome. We stayed at a nice Best Western on the northern end of town. Great restaurant for dinner and a free buffet for motel guests in the morning. Next morning I wanted to drive into the older section of town and take some pictures. I wasn't disappointed and wished we had more time to shop or people watch (a favorite pastime of mine). As I was taking photos of the main street my wife thinks she watched a drug deal going down with a group of youths on the north end of the city center (courthouse and park) but wasn't sure. I had asked the waitress the evening before what the road was like to Wickenburg and she said if I like steep switchbacks and vista views below me I would enjoy the drive, yeah right. So that being our choice and the alternate of going north on 89 to I-40 what do you think I opted for? I used the excuse that we were running short on time and there were other places back in Utah I wanted to see, the decision was to turn north and head for St. George/Cedar City by way of I-40, US93 and I-15. The reasoning was that I didn't want to backtrack over recently driven route and it would save time. The route to Vegas hasn't changed much other than more building construction along the way. I like to gamble but this was a fact finding trip. We did decide to stop in Vegas for lunch and I have had good buffets at some of the Station casinos dotted throughout the valley but I guess even the good ones can have a bummer. Sunset Station is the exception of the Station chain. It was 2:00 PM and the meal cost $32 for the two of us. My wife likes pasta and I am a meat and potatoes guy. There was one dried up piece of fried chicken in the tray, the potatoes a' graten were picked over and what was left was crusted along the sides. I selected a spiced and diced ham choice with two breakfast burritos and a green salad. The burritos were obviously from the morning meal I eat one and left the other on the plate. Our server only showed up for our drinks near the end of the meal and practically dropped our drinks on the table never returning to see if we needed more. You know that when the dessert was the best part of the buffet you must be scratching the bottom of the barrel. I seem to never learn.
The route to St George is a familiar route for me and probably can follow it blind folded, the way I should have taken the mountain routes.
My destination was west and north of town, the Mountain Meadow Massacre site near Enterprise, UT. The road was a gentle climb and lightly
traveled after we lost the residential traffic heading for the various housing tracts located 10 plus miles up the route. We found the
parking area without trouble and walked up the moderately steep trail to the overlook to get a panoramic view of the infamous location.
What you see at the overlook is a wall dedicated to the victims with their names etched in stone. A look through the pipes locate the
site of the memorial and also the location where the atrocity happened. We next drove down the dirt road to the memorial parking area.
There we walked down and back up the sidewalk to the memorial, yeah another switchback . I took several pictures and lamented on what
could possess a group of normal appearing farmers to conduct such an attack on their fellow man, killing children, women and unarmed men.
I received many arguments from church members about my fixation, and I always come back with 'How do you justify killing innocent children?'.
Leaving the site in silence and my wife not wanting to start an argument we drove along quietly until we started the descent into the
Cedar City area along 50. We spent the night at the Abbey Inn and dined at the Ihop both evening and morning.
Next morning I was adamant about completing that leg of 89 and decided to cross over on 14 to link back up with US 89. The mountain route was a nervous ride at best what with the obvious mud slides blocking small parts of the road and the passing between the sheer rock walls at the lower end with water cascading down from the above snow banks. We ascended to an altitude of 9200 feet and I was willing to stop but couldn't find a suitable pull off because of the 5 foot snow drifts lining the roadway. I now wish I had stopped but I will return this summer to take pictures of the spectacular view. 14 descended gradually to link up with 89 below Panquitch. I realize now that being that it was spring after a long winter that the vegetation hadn't sprouted and was quite dismal along the route. One of the places I had wanted to stop was Butch Cassidy's boyhood home. Entering Circleville we watched for some sign or indication that it was this way to the homestead. Nothing, absolutely nothing noting the location. I continued up 89 until we reached the Big Rock Candy Mountain and went in to purchase rock candy, from my youth's memory and found a restaurant with nothing to buy to indicate that we had visited. I took a couple of pictures then left. Just before the entrance to I-70 was the first sign about Butch's home. We continued on to Richfield and Salina to complete the leg and turned back on I-70 to return to I-15 then home. We have passed the exit to Cove Fort numerous times and had never stopped. What the hell and with the urging of my wife we pulled off. I was glad we did and after the tour my wife complimented me on my reserve and thanked me for not starting an argument with our very nice devoutly faithful tour guide at the fort. It should be noted that Cove Fort was a Mormon establishment and was ordered by Brigham Young to give travelers and homesteaders a safe haven in case of 'Indian' attack. It was constructed by President Hinckley's grandfather and was not needed for the purpose it was constructed. According to our tour guide Sister Terry, there was only one shot fired at the fort and it was two boys playing with a pistol they found. One accidentally shot the other in the knee, turns out the victim was President Hinckley's father. But it is a finely preserved and a commendable restoration by the church and should be visited by anyone traveling 89 or I-15. We entered I-15 once again headed home, arriving safely on the 16th.
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